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Alice Springs—Mparntwe—is on Arrernte Country. I acknowledge the Traditional Custodians of this area and their deep connection to Country, and pay my respects to their Elders past and present.
Alice Springs is always in the news, usually for negative reasons. And while there are serious social problems in town, it is still a fantastic base from which to explore the region, refuel and restock, or simply take a breather on a longer road trip.
There’s plenty to explore in the area itself so here’s my quick guide on where to stay in Alice safely, where to get your supplies, and the places I think are worth visiting.
GETTING TO ALICE SPRINGS
It’s actually quite easy to get to Alice, it’s just not very cheap in general.
By Car: It’s a long way from Darwin (~1,500km) or Adelaide (~1,500km), though at least the Stuart Highway is completely sealed. If you’re coming from the mid to northern East Coast across the Plenty Highway, that’s another adventure in and of itself, or the Barkly Highway, it’ll take a few days. As an example, it takes about three days of solid driving to reach Alice from Southeast Queensland (~2,500km).
By Air: Flying is much quicker but domestic flights are pricey, and mostly only connect directly from Sydney, Adelaide, Darwin or Brisbane.
By Bus: Alternatively, you can take a bus but a bus ticket from Darwin or Adelaide might not be much cheaper than a flight either (and will also take forever).
GETTING FROM THE AIRPORT TO TOWN
If you’re flying into Alice, the hardest part is actually getting from the airport to your accommodation. The airport is only about 14km south of town but do make sure you have your hotel transfer or shuttle bus sorted out before arriving in Alice. Don’t rely on taxis waiting at the airport, you might have to wait an hour or two for one to rock up.
We were once lucky enough to jump onto someone else’s booked shuttle bus at the airport but have also used ASP Private Hire for airport transfers at other times.
A QUICK NOTE ON SAFETY AND GETTING AROUND ALICE
To be honest, the best way to get around the actual town is usually to walk—Alice is quite compact. But a car makes getting to locations furthers afield, like the Desert Park, much easier. You could also easily ride a bike, parts of Alice are fairly flat and there are established bike paths along the Todd River and also Larapinta Drive to the Desert Park.
In terms of safety, here’s a word of advice.
The husband and I actually really like Alice—it’s rough, unpretentious and quintessentially outback Australia but you do need to have your wits about you a little bit. Most of Alice is very safe for travellers, especially during the day so we only have two rules when it comes to Alice:
- We don’t stay in the centre of town.
- We don’t walk around town after dark.
Uber and taxis are generally unreliable or non-existent in Alice. Organise your ride before heading out at night. Your best bet will be a private transport company or a hotel/pub shuttle bus.
Exploring further afield? If you’re heading east out of town, check out my complete Guide to the East MacDonnell Ranges.
BEST TIME TO VISIT: WEATHER AND SEASONS
Central Australia is best visited over the cooler months of the year so aim for April to September if you want to go hiking and enjoy yourself. If you’re visiting in winter (June–August), definitely bring warm layers as nights frequently drop below 0°C.
Summer (December–February), on the other hand, brings extreme heat above 40°C, making outdoor activities unpleasant if not dangerous. Most locals wouldn’t head outdoors in the middle of the day.
WHERE TO STAY IN ALICE SPRINGS (SAFE AND PRACTICAL OPTIONS)
There are plenty of options for staying in Alice Springs but not all options are created equal. We have stayed in Alice on campervan road trips with the family, before and after hiking the Larapinta Trail, and overnight on Central Australia road trips.
As I said, we don’t stay in the centre of town—from loud pub noise to nightly hooning and anti-social behaviour, I value my sleep too much to put up with that when I’ve got other options.
DESERT PALMS RESORT
Our go-to choice.
The Desert Palms Resort offers self-contained villas with kitchenettes, which work great for people like me who have dietary restrictions and prefer to do their own cooking.
We first booked a couple of bungalows here in 2017 on a family trip but have since returned a few more times. When we hiked the Larapinta Trail a couple of years back, it was super easy to store an extra bag here so that clean clothes were waiting for us after the hike.
The interior of the villas is, admittedly, a bit dated but the beds are comfy and you can usually get a reasonable rate, even in high season. At night, the front gate gets locked and you can park your vehicle right outside your bungalow.
It’s a bit of a walk into town, about 2.5km, but there’s a nice walking path along the Todd River that makes it easy. Plus, you’ll have peace and quiet at night. There’s also a pool on-site, though I can’t say I’ve ever felt like jumping in during an Alice winter. 🙂
HERITAGE CARAVAN PARK
If you’re travelling in a campervan, caravan or want to tent it, Heritage Caravan Park is our other go-to. We’ve stayed here both in a cabin and in a powered campsite with a rented campervan.
This caravan park is decidedly out of town—about 5km south—which makes it a pretty quiet and safe option. The property is massive with lots of trees for shade and the usual caravan park amenities, from hot showers to a camp kitchen, laundry, pool and dump point. Like at the Desert Palms, there’s a proper security gate at the front.
We’ve also booked a basic cabin here, and while there were definitely no frills to be found, it was clean and tidy and more than sufficient if you just need a bed for the night and access to your own hot shower.
Heritage tends to be busy so booking ahead is recommended.
OTHER ACCOMMODATION AND CAMPING OPTIONS
Here are a couple of other places we would actually stay at—and almost have. One time because the Desert Palms had no availability, and another time because Alice Springs went into COVID lockdown and we couldn’t’ physically get there.
- Mercure Alice Springs Resort: On the same side of the Todd River as the Desert Palms but closer to town. It’s popular with tour groups and can book out well in advance. The rooms are standard hotel rooms without a kitchenette but they do offer breakfast. I’d booked it for a trip we ultimately had to cancel.
- Quest Alice Springs: Close to the Desert Palms Resort but on the town side of the Todd River. A good alternative offering spacious apartments with full amenities if you prefer to cook your own meals.
- Wanngardi Caravan Park: A quiet campground alternative out of town with views of the ranges and stars at night. I had booked this place on our Central Australia trip in 2021 but had to cancel because Alice went into lockdown and we were squished in like sardines out at Palm Valley.
THINGS TO DO IN ALICE SPRINGS
Though perhaps not as vibrant as it was on our first visit ten years ago, you can still easily spend a couple of days exploring the town, there’s no shortage of fun and interesting things to do.
This isn’t an exhaustive list—I’ve trimmed it down to the places and sights we’ve actually enjoyed the most over the years. One place that’s missing is the Royal Flying Doctor Service base; after six visits to Alice, it’s hard to believe I still haven’t managed to stop by there.
If you don’t have a car or just prefer someone else to do the organising, you can join a half-day guided tour for an afternoon like the Historical Alice Tour which covers the Telegraph Station, Anzac Hill, the RFDS base and a School of the Air visit.
ALICE SPRINGS DESERT PARK: NATIVE WILDLIFE AND FLORA
Alice Springs Desert Park at a Glance
Whether you’re keen on zoos or not, you can’t go past the Alice Springs Desert Park. It’s such a great educational place to learn about the desert landscape, from rare desert plants to eco-systems, botanic zones and all the big and small critters that call it home.
The Nature Theatre bird show is absolutely worthwhile, especially when eagles and kites zoom right past you. What’s even better is spotting an extra–sleepy Tawny Frogmouth nodding away in the stands completely unfazed by the raptor action.
You can also listen in on Aboriginal-led talks about native bush tucker or medicinal plants, which I found particularly interesting for understanding more about local Arrernte practices and culture.
Practical Tip: Plan a good chunk of time to visit the desert park, we probably spent a good three hours here. It’s not a small park and it’ll take time to wander around the distinct habitats, look at all the exhibits and watch the bird show. The nocturnal house is nice and cool if you need a break from the hot sun, and you might spot a Thorny Devil in the process!
How to Get There: Driving is easiest (plenty of parking) but if you don’t have a car, you could catch a bus close-ish to the desert park (plus 15–20 minutes walk) or cycle along the Larapinta Drive bike path.
Want to see the desert beyond the park? For one of the best day walks within reach of Alice Springs, read my detailed Guide to Hiking the Ormiston Pound in the West Macs.
TELEGRAPH STATION: THE START OF EUROPEAN SETTLEMENT IN ALICE
Alice Springs Telegraph Station at a Glance
The Telegraph Station is probably one of my favourite sights in Alice, it’s a truly fascinating spot if you’re keen on early European history and want to learn more about the first white settlement in Alice.
Once stretching more than 3,000km and connecting Australia to the world, it boggles the mind how the Overland Telegraph Line from Adelaide to Darwin was actually constructed back in the 1870s.
It’s worth taking the guided tour, including seeing the Stationmaster Residence and the Post & Telegraph Office from the inside.
The tour is fairly relaxed and apart from being able to enter the station buildings and learning more about this monumental feat of early engineering, you can also wander the restored grounds at your leisure afterwards. Needless to say that we ended up spending a couple of hours here.
Alternatively, you can simply have a picnic or bbq in the park at the Telegraph Station Historical Reserve or head to the excellent Trail Station Café—great gluten-free cake options!
And if you’re keen to hike or mountain bike, there are a few trails strewn across the reserve, some prettier than others. 🙂
How to Get There: Drive or if you don’t mind a walk or bike ride from town, take the Riverside Trail along the Todd River, about 3km from town. It’s actually quite a nice, scenic walk if it’s not too hot.
ANZAC HILL: PANORAMIC VIEWS AND HISTORY IN ONE
Anzac Hill at a Glance
Anzac Hill is a popular spot to get a sense of the scale of the town and take in the surrounding landscape while being reminded of Australia’s history and involvement in various armed conflicts and wars.
From the top, you’ll look straight down Bath Street towards the Gap and the expansive spine of the MacDonnell Ranges stretching out to the east and west of Alice. Early morning and late afternoon are best when the low sun brings out the vibrant red in the ranges.
I think actually walking up the hill—rather than driving straight to the top—is a really good way to take in the commemorative path. The rusted iron memorial panels along the pathway are sober reminders of our military past.
OLIVE PINK BOTANIC GARDEN: NATIVE PLANTS AND ROCK WALLABIES
Olive Pink Botanic Garden at a Glance
Located on the eastern side of the Todd River is the Olive Pink Botanic Garden. Don’t think lush, tropical wonderland here, this botanic garden showcases native arid plants and eco-systems and so has a completely different feel to many other botanic gardens.
Entry is free and you can simply take one of the short walking tracks to wander around the different botanic zones, head up on the rocky hill for elevated views or admire the metal sculptures strewn around the gardens. In the late afternoon, you can also spot plenty of black-footed rock wallabies.
We haven’t been but I’ve heard very good things about the Bean Tree Café if you’re in need of breakfast, lunch or just a coffee. Given their gluten-free options, I’m very keen to try it next time we’re in Alice.
How to Get There: Drive or walk / ride from town—it’s less than 2km from the town centre.
STUART TOWN GAOL: A QUICK WINDOW INTO EARLY OUTBACK JUSTICE
Stuart Town Gaol at a Glance
To learn even more about the early settler history of Alice Springs, take a peak inside the single-room Stuart Town Gaol, the first government building in Alice and now part of the National Trust.
Visiting the old gaol won’t take long, it’s a tiny building. There are a few info panels and stories about the grittier side of Alice, including early policing efforts, outback law and local prison history.
How to Get There: Located around the corner from Todd Mall in the centre of town; pick up a key from the Hartley Street School Museum for self-guided entry.
MEGAFAUNA CENTRE: PREHISTORIC FOSSILS AND ANCIENT TIMES
Megafauna Central at a Glance
After we hiked the Larapinta Trail, we had an extra day in Alice and so headed to Megafauna Central. Actually, we went to The Bakery (a must-do) for celebration cake and only went inside the museum because we were walking past along Todd Mall and it looked interesting. 🙂
Regardless, Megafauna Central is much more fascinating than I would have expected, and it’s definitely worth having a look, especially since admission is free.
Focusing on ancient megafauna in Central Australia, you can learn more about these historic creatures as well as view fossils found at the nearby Alcoota Scientific Reserve, which include giant crocodiles, seriously tall flightless birds, the Dromornis (over 3.2m tall) and a relative of the (in)famous Tassie Tiger, the Thylacinus potens.
How to Get There: Very conveniently located in Todd Mall, the best way to get there is to walk.
TOWN ESSENTIALS: CAFÉS, BAKERIES AND GEAR STOPS
Whether you’re using Alice as your starting point for the Larapinta Trail or as a base for exploring the wider region, here are a few local stops that I love popping into every time we’re in Alice.
- The Bakery: From sourdough to pastries, pies, great coffee and yummy gluten-free treats, I’ve been to The Bakery more times than is strictly necessary (Note: While they take care, The Bakery is not 100% coeliac-safe since their gluten-free goods are baked on the same premises as everything else.)
- Trail Station Café: Right next to the Telegraph Station, this café has some great gluten-free (and non-gluten-free) options for morning tea treats and lunch. We had a celebratory late morning tea here after finishing the Larapinta—dirty, sweaty and with heavy packs in tow.
- Red Kangaroo Books: I’ve spent hours in this bookshop over the years—they have such a great selection of indigenous literature, local history and general fiction set in Central Australia (not to mention all the other genres and topics). Definitely worth a visit if you love books.
- Lone Dingo: If you haven’t organised your gas canisters for the Larapinta or need some last-minute hiking gear, the Lone Dingo is an excellent independent outdoor store right in Todd Mall.
- Desert Dwellers: This huge camping and outdoor store feels more like a giant warehouse than a store but if you need to replace any camping gear while you’re travelling or forgotten anything, they’ll probably have it. We bought a billy here once when we realised that we’d left our old billy at home and weren’t going to be able to heat any food or water on a 3-day Larapinta Loop hike.
READY TO EXPLORE ALICE SPRINGS?
Whether you’re just stopping in Alice for food and fuel on your way to the East Macs or West Macs, or using it as base for a week, the town itself is actually worth exploring for a couple of days. It’s a fairly relaxed sort of place, especially if you stay on the edges of town.
Happy exploring,
Planning a bigger Northern Territory road trip? Take a look at my 7 highlights from our Darwin to Alice Road Trip or read my comprehensive 4WD guide to East Arnhem Land for more Top End inspiration.
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